Basic Supplies for Training

• Clicker

• Treats (small bits→ frequent small rewards→ more repetitions, as opposed to having a few large pieces)

• Treat bag

• Flat collar

• 6 foot leash

Some basic tips for training

• Don’t start trying to teach your puppy fancy commands- start with the basics and things that’ll make it easier to coexist.

• Teach new commands in a low distraction environment. Once they can reliably perform the behavior, you can start to increase the difficulty by practicing in a new environment. "Proofing" a behavior is the process of increasing the difficulty by having your dog perform the behavior in a high-distraction setting. A dog might readily come to you when you practice recall at home, but they won't have a reliable recall outside around other distractions unless you've practiced in that environment.

• Using treats- I recommend having a range of treats, of different "value". Treats that are moist, delicious and smelly tend to be higher value. Examples of high-value treats include string cheese. Example of low-value food/ treats include kibble.

• Dogs are very good at learning patterns. They will learn your routine and you may see their behaviors adjust accordingly.

• It's more productive to train a dog what to do, instead of just telling them what NOT to do. For example, yelling "no" at them or rushing to get them off the couch is not as helpful as telling them what you want them to do instead of jumping on the couch. Yelling "no" at them or pushing them away when they jump on your guests is not as helpful as telling them how you want them to behavior when meeting people.

• As you increase the difficulty during training (performing complex behaviors in distracting environments), you might notice that your dog is unable to reliably complete the behavior. Back up to the last successful repetition, repeat that several more times, and add an additional step-wise increase in the difficulty if possible. This applies to every behavior you train.

• Capture and reward "good" behavior. When your dog looks at you without being prompted, whether you are just working around the house or out on a walk, mark and reward. This is known as the "auto-watch". This teaches that paying attention to you is very rewarding. Eye contact is the gateway to freedom and all good things.

• How you react when distractions occur. Don’t tense up, shorten your leash or start giving commands when a distraction presents itself. Your dog learns to be on guard when they see

• Don’t need to apply punishment. Just withhold reward until the behavior is adjusted.

How to teach a new behavior

• Getting started- luring a new behavior. My dog is very treat motivated, so I rely mostly on food for training. When training a new behavior, I use treats or kibble to lure my dog to perform the action.

  • Example- starting with the most basic command "sit"- holding a treat above her head and moving back slightly encourages her to move from standing to sitting.

• Marking the precise moment your dog successfully performs the correct behavior helps your dog understand the exact behavior they are being rewarded for. I use a clicker for most of my training, but you can also use a marker word like "yes" or "good" or "pancakes". Remember, dogs don't understand English, they only know what you teach them. So you can use whatever word you want as a marker, and use whatever words you want for your cues!

  • "Loading" the clicker or your marker word- you want your puppy to associate the click or the marker word with getting a treat. So for the first session, your puppy will hear the click and get a treat. This doesn't involve any effort or attention on their part- but they will learn that click= treat.

• Verbal cues or hand gestures- after your pup is reliably performing the complete behavior with luring, it's time to add a verbal cue and/ or hand signal. Once they can complete the behavior, you can add a verbal cue right before they do the behavior. For example, if you are teaching "sit", you can add the word just before their butt touches the ground. You're basically transitioning from using the food lure to using the verbal use as the indicator to do the behavior.

• Shaping- for more complicated behaviors, like rolling over, it is helpful to break the process into smaller steps and reward with each step closer to the final behavior.

  • Roll over- start with a well-understood "lay down". Then lure into laying on their side. Then lure into the "roll".

• Don’t repeat your commands. If your dog knows the command, give them time to think, instead of telling them again. If you repeat yourself, your pup will learn that they don't have to comply until you've said the cue multiple times.

Basic commands to start with.

• Sit/ stay

• Place

• Threshold behavior (not charging through doors)

• Settle- Tethering and letting them learn how to settle on their own is key.

Tutorials on teaching your dog basic manners for everyday life

• Not to bark at other dogs

  • Training in the house: desensitization through exposure to audio recordings on YouTube. I started with the volume on low and marked and rewarded when she remained quiet while listening. As she consistently remained quiet, I would slowly increase the volume and repeat the process.

  • Training in the neighborhood: desensitization through exposure below threshold. Initially, seeing or smelling another dog prompted a barking frenzy. So we started far away from any dogs (but still able to see dogs) and marked and rewarded when she remained quiet. As she consistently remained quiet, we would slowly move closer to the stimulus (we often practiced outside nearby dog parks) and repeat the process.

• Waiting politely when I'm setting down her water (or filling her water bowl)

  • While she was standing or sitting, I would hold her water bowl in my hand, and then start to lower the bowl to set it down. If she approached, I simply stood up and raised the bowl. We repeated this until I was able to set the bowl down and she didn't approach. Then I motioned for her to drink and said the word drink.

• Waiting politely to go inside or outside

  • The target behavior: having your dog remain seated while the door is wide open, and not moving to walk through the door until you give them the signal to do so. "Proofing" this behavior involves increasing the distraction- you should be able to freely walk in and out without your dog moving.

  • Start with your pup in a sit by the door. Mark and reward a calm sit. There are many smaller steps between this and the final behavior. The first step can be as simple as grabbing the door handle. If you are able to do that and your dog remains seated, mark and reward. If not, you can make it even easier by just reaching your hand toward the door. Next steps include slowly opening the door further in small increments. Mark and reward each successful repetition. If your dog moves, back up to the last successful repetition and repeat. Progress more slowly the next time.

• Waiting politely to exit the crate

  • An integral part of crate training is not opening the crate and releasing your pup when they're barking. If that is the pattern, they learn that if they bark and whine long enough, they will get released. Instead, mark and reward any second of quiet. When they can remain quiet for a few seconds, you can mark and reward and then increase the difficulty by slightly opening the door. If they rush to leave the crate, calmly close the door. Similar to doorway training, the goal is to teach them that they need to be laying down and quiet before the door is opened.

• Keeping all four paws on the ground when meeting people

  • Still a work in progress!

  • Things that have significantly decreased jumping

    • 1. Rewarding calmly sitting next to me while people are far away.

    • 2. Developing a "go say hi" cue- this is a release command that tells her she can go up to a person.

• Loose leash walking

  • Still a work in progress!

  • Things that improve loose leash walking

    • Setting up for success- only start your walk when your pup is calm.

    • Loose leash training, just like any other new behavior, starts inside in a low distraction environment.

    • Marking and rewarding eye contact during walks

    • A "this way" walk- instead of walking in one direction, this walk involves frequent changes in direction preceded by a verbal cue. Making your pattern of movement unpredictable.

    • Developing a "sniff" cue- this is a release command that tells her she can go explore the environment. She doesn't have to walk close to me, but she also isn't allow to pull on the leash.

    • Other techniques- the figure of 8

    • Handling distraction- teach that distraction + eye contact→ treats.

Early Skills to Learn

• Crate Training, A Step-by-Step Guide AKC Tutorial

Training Tutorials

• Watch Me AKC Tutorial

• What are the first things to train a puppy? AKC Tutorial

  • Potty Training, crate training, alone time training, appropriate chewing, socialization and confidence